February 23, 2011

Men's: modern suit styles for 2011:Double breasted suits and sportscoats

If there is one cut that I'm glad I have been able to return to my wardrobe it is the modern, double-breasted suit. Those of you who recall the last time that double breasted suits & sports coats were in fashion may recall the boxy cut it inevitably came with. Fear not, that cut has gone. In its place is one that defies what double breasted suits were originally designed to do: hide a plump figure. In lieu they're now designed to accent & to heighten the ideal masculine shape: the V-shaped, well worked body.

tom ford suit

Double breasted Tom Ford suits with pointed / peak lapels

If you're purchasing off-the-rack you'll note that there are a good number of double breasted suits available to you, each cut to a slightly different variation. What then should you look for? Suits for 
2011 and 2012 are all about the same attributes that I keep reiterating: a cut that broadens the shoulders and slims the waist. With double breasted suits you also need to figure in to the general affect what I earlier dubbed the confidence cut. And that means four additional things for a double breasted suit:

1.that it's peaked lapels
2.that its breast pocket is cut to a  pocket handkerchief

As you can see from the image to the right, the latter mention of a pocket handkerchief is less a requirement and more of a desirable flourish - the added attention to detail of a pocket handkerchief can not only make a look (and would make this one), it can be that one point that sets you apart in a crowded room,  when that room is filled with chaps wearing their suit with disdain or if they spend their days stuck behind a table. But the vintage photograph you see also leads to one other additional styling tip: when purchasing a double-breasted suit the "Kent" cut is the in-fashion cut. Named after a style popularised by the The Prince George, Duke of Kent, it's a cut of double breasted suits where a longer lapel line extends in to the waist. That's to say: the part of the double breasted suit that sits on the front buttons on the waist line (as pictured on the Duke of Windsor, right). This tiny detail will help convey you as being taller than you may very well be and, if cut correctly, also insinuate that you have a trim waist. You'll find the Kent suit cut is offered by  a few designers, including D&G (pictured below), and all good tailors.

d&g suit


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